Several weeks ago, Eleanor Hoh (@wokstar) started sending good #ff tweets to a number of her followers she feels are fanatic about pho. A #ff is a weekly ritual whereby you highlight, via a hashtag, tweeps you recommend others follow. foodiePrints' twitter account (@foodieprints) was one of the tweeps she included.

As the Apartment 613 blog recently confirmed, we at foodiePrints are rather pho obsessed. Practical, low cost, and satisfying, Ottawa is blessed with a large number of Pho houses. We have eaten so many fine bowls of pho we have actually developed a list of characteristics to look for.

So, it was with great pleasure I accepted Eleanor's challenge to join a number of food bloggers, make a bowl of pho, and mass post an entry into the food community of the blogosphere by March 20, 2010. Do check Eleanor's blog, Be a Work Star, for a list of blog posts.

For our contribution, we decided to attempt a lamb pho. However, we borrowed aspects from French cookery to make it: salting (curing) and searing the meat before simmering. What resulted, while borrowing aspects of the traditional pho flavour profile, was not pho. Why? The broth did not taste as clean as a pho broth should. The broth was not clear. And, the broth was overly rich, carrying too much lamb flavour.

A Bowl of Lamb Faux Pho

Overly Rich Broth
However, it was a good bowl of noodle soup.

Here's how we made it.

Broth:
We took approximately 1.5 kg (3 lb) of lamb bones with a good deal of meat on them.

Lamb Bones
We seasoned them with kosher salt and placed them on a rack set in a plastic tray. Then, we placed the tray in the fridge, covering it with plastic wrap, for 2 hours.

Lamb Curing
The idea was to draw out liquid and concentrate flavour.

To flavour the broth, we took two small onions, halved them, and impaled each half with 5-6 whole cloves. We placed each half into a slow cooker and added a tbsp of black peppercorns, a dash of kosher salt, an inch of ginger (sliced), and the peeled and separated cloves of one head of garlic.

Gathering Flavourants

After 2 hours curing, we dried the lamb pieces and seared them in a well oiled metal bottomed pan, set to medium heat on a stovetop (2 minutes/side).

Lamb Searing

Lamb Seared
With so many pieces of lamb, we worked in batches. Every time we finished with a batch, we de-glazed the pan with a splash or two of water, scraping the fond, and added the liquid to the slow cooker.

Most Asian soups (broths or stock) are characteristically flavourful, but clean in taste and visually clear. This is usually accomplished by pre-simmering soup bones and/or meat for thirty minutes to an hour, dumping out the cooking liquid, and rising everything. I have always been told this "cooked out impurities." Impurities or no, the process largely eliminates the scum (protein foam, blood, and marrow) that floats to the top of a simmering broth or stock. Left in, the scum tends to cloud a soup. This is why culinary students are taught how to "clarify" broths or stocks with an egg whites. Post-simmering, a broth or stock can also be clarified with agar agar and a centrifuge, but I digress.

For this batch of broth, we filled the slow cooker pot to just above the bones and brought everything to a boil on high, boiling it for 5 minutes.

To be Broth being Brought up to a Boil
Afterward, we let the mixture cool to barely simmering and simmered the mixture on low for 3 hours. During the first hour, I checked the broth every 20 minutes to skim off the scum.

We then placed the entire pot into the fridge so the fat can setup on top and be lifted off. After straining and re-heating, we produced a rich broth that tasted very strongly of lamb. In the background were the typical pho broth flavours.

Done
To finish it, we diluted the broth with water and seasoned it with fish sauce to taste.

Faux Pho:
To serve, we plated bowls with fresh pho rice noodles, "as fresh as we could find" bean sprouts, cilantro leaves, lime juice, and soup beef balls (from frozen).

Clockwise from Left: bean sprouts, noodles, cilantro

Fresh as we Could find Bean Sprouts
If you have ever ordered beef balls with your pho in a decent pho noodle house, you were most likely served heavily processed beef, shaped into balls, that had a strangely chewy texture. These beef balls are sold in many Asian markets in the frozen section.

Soup Beef Balls
While we went with the frozen option, I have made soup beef balls from scratch before with very finely food processor processed beef, chestnut powder, rice starch, and a little baking soda.

If you come across comments condemning pho noodle houses for serving "artificial beef" with their pho. The soup beef balls are likely what they felt was off-putting.

Here is our accompaniment plate:

Accompaniment Plate

To plate up, we brought the broth up to a boil in a pot set to medium heat on a stovetop and boiled it for 5 minutes. We actually re-heated the beef balls in the broth. Afterward, we lowered the heat to low and kept it simmering.

Re-Heating Broth
As the broth was heating, we blanched 2 portions worth of noodles as per the instructions on the packaging.

We placed the noodles into the bottom of two bowls and topped each with a handful of raw bean sprouts. When ready, we brought the broth back up to a boil and ladled it into the bowls. To them, we added some of the lamb meat (re-claimed from the bones), beef balls, and cilantro.

Bowl Being Assembled

Done

While what we made was not an authentic bowl of pho, it made a great dinner.

Next time, I will be re-attempting the broth with a mixture of beef and lamb bones. Also, I will be pre-simmering instead of skimming.

With spring just a day away, Ottawa has seen some beautiful and unusual weather the past few days. Can you recall a March in which there was hardly any snow left on the ground? Or, how about days of endless sunshine? Nope, I didn't think so!

With the majority of elementary and high school students enjoying their March Break, I have seen many of them walking around Hintonburg and Wellington West Village in their spring/summery clothing. Many of them were just coming out of the bakeries with cookies and sweets in their hands while others had ice cream and popsicles. I myself have been walking around Wellington West Village in my bright red shorts and my Canada Olympic t-shirt during the afternoons (started running again) and dreaming of a delicious cold bubble tea. With such warm and gorgeous weather, I am eager for spring to come.

I love a good cold snowy Canadian winter, but there is just something about spring that makes me very excited. The days are longer and warmer and waiting at the bus stop for a bus seems less of a chore. Or perhaps it is the knowledge that spring means that the public will soon be able to purchase and taste locally grown fruits and vegetables.

Growing up in the suburbs, spring meant it was time for my parents to buy bags of top soil and for them to decide what crops and plants they wanted in their garden. My favourite childhood memory of spring were trips my family and I made to the ByWard Market on Saturday afternoons. There, my parents would take us from vendor to vendor, examining lots of beefsteak tomato and zucchini plants. Over the years, my parents added chives, strawberries, green onions, green beans, winter melon, fuzzy squash, bitter melon, potatoes, and more to our backyard garden. With so many varieties of vegetables, both Asian and non-Asian, I had my own farmer's market at my disposal.

I understand now that years of watching crops and plants grow from little seedlings to luscious foods have contributed to my love of cooking. Watching my parents nurture their garden has made me appreciate all the hard work that goes into growing one's own food. Although Don and I live in a building, I will be celebrating spring by planting my own garden of herbs and tomatoes on our balcony. And, I will be one of the first people in line at the farmers' markets once asparagus is available! I can't wait for the full arrival of spring!

And so foodiePrints readers, that is my spring story. Now it is your turn. What are your favourite childhood memories of spring? How do you celebrate the new season? And, what are your favourite spring foods?

Right now, I should be working on a draft for a lamb pho recipe to submit to Eleanor Hoh (@wokstar) of the Be a Wok Star blog to participate in a "#Pho buddies" food blog event this Sunday. However, I came across a Globe and Mail opinion editorial (op-ed) piece by journalist Margaret Wente that seems rather poorly informed, "Why are bloggers male?"

Why are bloggers male?
Source: Globe and Mail

Shortly after the Globe and Mail twitter account (@globeandmail) tweeted it, it enraged many on Twitter. Several, thanks to Ottawa's Joe Boughner (@joeboughner), have responded by listing favourite female bloggers and their corresponding blogs under the #xxbloggers hash tag.

In her op-ed piece, Wente made the following generalizations, among others,

1. blogging is "more of a guy thing"
2. the blogoshpere is male dominant
3. women are not interested in "spitting out an opinion on current events every 20 minutes"
4. girls don't have "male answer syndrome" so in school (particularly math class), they don't "shoot up their hands first"
5. women are not interested in "mental jousting"

I am not sure what to think about her piece or its intention.

Please note I have played devil's advocate before with some more than likely intentionally inflammatory words blogged by author and chef, Michael Ruhlman. Be it his "don't write if you can help it" or "foodies don't cook", I believe he is goading people to write better and learn how to cook, respectively. Both benefit him and the food community.

Conversely, Wente does not seem to be intentionally inflammatory. What benefit would a member of traditional media have to encourage more women into the blososphere where there are already many established and respected female bloggers; encourage bloggers to blog less frequently and with more breadth when blogging is already seen as a less "immediate" vehicle for expression; or encourage women to develop aggressive and impulsive behaviour in online communities when it is already difficult to cultivate trust? So, why highlight a gender inequality issue where there may not be one?

Let us define what a blog is. According to the online Merriam-Webster dictionary

a blog is a website that contains an online personal journal with reflections, comments, and often hyperlinks provided by the writer.

Source: Merriam-Webster Online

Accordingly, the word was added in 1999. Today, blogging has arguably expanded to include other media besides text (still the predominant form). There are video blogs (vlogs). There are photo blogs (photoblogs). There are audio blogs (podcasting). With the advent of Twitter and Facebook, there is also micro-blogging. Though, I feel it somewhat violates the definition as micro-blogging is conversational in nature, more transient, very lacking in context, and rather difficult to reference.

That said, Wente claims there are few to no women operating websites that contain commentary, reflections, or the like. I beg to differ. In Ottawa alone, we have 60 food blogs at last count. Of these, I know of only 5 male food bloggers and two couple bloggers. Need I even point to mommy bloggers, some of whom double as food bloggers? Actually, there are enough dedicated mommy bloggers Mashable even has a Top 10 list of misconceptions about them. And, as fellow Ottawa food blogger Leslie (@defnotmartha) of the Definitely Not Martha blog pointed out, there is an online community for female bloggers called BlogHer. It holds an enormous annual convention.

At this juncture, I cannot come up with a way to positively interpret Wente's piece. Then again, foodiePrints is just a food blog. I am just a guy. I must suffer from "male answer syndrome." So, I must be responding impulsively to encourage discord.

In light of these deficiencies, I may have to tell my better half the posts she writes for foodiePrints isn't blogging.

Perhaps Wente would prefer we invent a new term. If b-logging is for boys, would she prefer g-logging for girls?

Update: As per Kelly Rusk's (@krusk) recommendation, I just pulled the Globe and Mail links, including the one to their twitter account. Rusk, a great blogger in her own right, explains why I could find neither rhyme nor reason to Wente's piece. The Globe and Mail is link baiting. They are purposely trying to outrage people, inciting them to blog, tweet, and include links to their site.

Imagine my surprise when I came across a tweet by fellow Ottawa food blogger Jodi (@simplyfresh) of the Simply Fresh blog that read something like this:

@SimplyFresh (Mar 17, 03:19 PM)
@FoodiePrints @RonEade - great article on @apartment613 about you!

Honestly, my response was to retype the Twitter url. I thought the web UI had somehow corrupted itself, adding foodiePrints' handle to the tweet.

@apartment613 is the twitter handle for Apartment 613, a popular multi-faceted community blog that aims to showcase the more creative side of Canada's capital, Ottawa. It gives some much needed attention to our thriving music, art, theater, and food scenes. I follow the blog via their RSS-feed and Google reader, enjoying their coverage of local events, especially their photos of live indie bands. Many photos are taken by in-house photographer Ming Wu (@ming_wu).

Sometime this afternoon, Apartment 613 blogger/editor Ryan Saxby Hill (@saxby) posted an entry, listing a handful of local food bloggers. After all, somewhat restaurant-rich and with multiple culinary schools nearby, Ottawa should be a food obsessed city.

foodiePrints on the Apartment613 blog
Source: Apartment 613 Blog

Besides us, Saxby's piece includes Ron Eade (@roneade and Ottawa Citizen Food Editor), Shari Goodman (@whisk_food_blog) (one of my favourite food bloggers), and Dominic Maggiolo (a freelancer who writes for Apartment 613). Also mentioned is the Ottawa Foodies forum, which is operated by Mark Warburton (@warby).

Suffice it to say, the post made my St. Patrick's Day. We are honoured to be listed with the likes of Eade's Omnivore's Ottawa and Goodman's Whisk: A Food Blog.

And yes, my team (Jenn) and I are pho obsessed. Another pho piece will be forthcoming shortly. This one is a recipe.

At the end of February, Carol Paschal organized another outing for the Hintonburg Supper Club, this time at the Viva Loca Cafe (1233 Wellington Street W.), located inside the Great Canadian Theatre Company (GCTC). In the months since Viva Loca opened its second location, Don and I have only eaten there once, ordering their delicious oat and whole-wheat pancakes from their weekend brunch menu for takeout. Made to order, they were light and fluffy. When we received the email for February's event, we became excited to try their dinner menu.

In addition to their regular lunch and dinner menu of panini grilled sandwiches, gluten-free wraps, savory crepes, chili, soup, and salads, Viva Loca offered supper club members a table d'hote menu ($17.95). For starters, they offered the soup of the day or a mixed green salad. For the entree, there were three options.

1. Hearty chunky chicken stew loaded with fresh vegetables and served with artisan bread.
2. Roasted vegetable lasagna layered with fresh pasta and cheese and served with artisan bread.
3. Ham and fresh asparagus buckwheat crepe with cheese sauce.

Dessert was a selection of home made treats, date squares, apple & plum crisp, cookies (including a gluten-free option) and carrot cake, along with coffee or tea. Don and I decided to order from the table d'hote for that evening's dinner.

Due to the number of people attending that night's dinner, GCTC closed its doors with a sign to the public, saying it was closed for a private function.


Viva Loca Signage

In the daytime, Viva Loca is a wonderfully bright eatery. The sun streams through its floor to ceiling windows that surround it. Despite the concrete stairs and walls, the dining area is comfortable and the staff, warm and inviting.


Inside Viva Loca

Displays of dessert greeting patrons

Starter – Soup of the Day or Mixed Green Salad

Potato and Leek Soup with Artisan Bread

That chilly evening, Don and I chose the soup of the day to start: a cream of potato and leek soup. Made with a vegetable-based broth, the soup contained thinly sliced leek with large chunks of red potatoes. While I enjoyed eating the large chunks of potato, I was surprised at how the soup was made. I had expected a soup with more body. What we were served that evening was a very thin soup, whose cream finish seemed slightly curdled. The leeks were also slightly overcooked. Despite its loose texture, the soup had great flavour. The accompanying slice of multi-grain artisan bread was delicious. It was nicely toasted, giving off a wonderful scent of toasted caraway seeds in its crust.

Entree – Roasted Vegetable Lasagna layered with fresh pasta and cheese and artisan bread

Roasted Vegetable Lasagna

For his entree, Don chose the roasted vegetable lasagna. It was layered with a generous serving of cheese, fresh vegetables, and marinara sauce. In fact the serving was enormous. Overall, Don told me the vegetarian lasagna met his expectations. He would have preferred the pasta cooked more al dente and the sauce, slightly thicker. Again, the slice of multi-grain artisan bread made a nice accompaniment to the lasagna, perfect to sop up the marinara sauce. The salad was fresh and crisp.

Entree – Hearty Chunky Chicken Stew loaded with Fresh Vegetables and artisan bread

Chunky Chicken Stew

For my entree, I chose the hearty chunky chicken stew. Coming in from the cold and watching people walk by bundled in their winter gear, the stew seemed like the perfect choice to me. When the bowls of chicken stew were served, I heard other supper club members express worry the servings were rather small. However, the serving was just right. It was filling. The stew, chunky and satisfying. Each bowl contained a generous helping of fresh vegetables (carrots, mushrooms, potatoes, onion, and celery) and large chunks of chicken breast. The stew was nicely thick and well-seasoned.

Dessert
For dessert, many supper club members chose either the date square or apple and plum crisp. Few chose the carrot cake.

Don chose the date square.

Date Square

Again, as with everything else served that evening, the serving portion of the square was large. According to him, the square was more square than date. The pastry, crisp but thick. The date filling was sweet, but not cloyingly so.

Never one to turn down an apple crisp, I was excited to try Viva Loca's apple & plum ginger crisp.

Apple & Plum Ginger Crisp

It was my first time tasting apple paired with plum in a dessert. When my plate came, the crisp looked delicious. The fruit filling was quite tasty. Not overly sweet, the plums and apples were thinly sliced, skin on. The streussel topping was very thick, crisp, and sweet. After a few bites, it became obvious there was too much streussel and not enough fruit. The distribution of the ginger was somewhat uneven. With every bite, I could taste ginger, but some bites had large pieces of ginger, while others did not.

In general, the meal was rustic and filling. Don and I were impressed with the sheer variety of dishes, flavours, and textures that were made with seasonal and local ingredients. We plan on returning to try their brunch menu.

Total: $40.57 (after taxes, before tip)

Particulars:
Viva Loca
1233 Wellington Street W.
(613)728-8482

More after the jump...