Ever since my less than successful first attempt at cooking lamb shanks, I have revisited preparing the traditionally long cooked cut of meat twice. Both times either produced shanks whose meat that was too soft or too firm. Neither attempt employed mushrooms. So, when Leela (@sheshimmers) of the She Shimmers and Melody (@gourmetfury) of the Gourmet Fury blogs announced February's vegetable for their Beet & Squash "Veggie Celebration Contest", I decided to attempt the only preparation of lamb shanks I have encountered that had the texture I wanted, braised lamb shanks with mushroom bolognese. That preparation was actually a frozen entree from local fine food store Epicuria (419 Mackay Street).

Given that I missed "Battle Napa Cabbage", due to other happenings this past New Year, I pulled out all the stops.

First, I went looking for the source recipe and its originator: Italian Master Chef Michael Chiarello. Then, I chanced upon Epicuria's recipe and took note of their intepretation of Chef Chiarello's recipe.

Having read up on the recipes and armed with tips from an ex-Epicuria Chef, I went shopping for lamb shanks. Before, I purchase frozen New Zealand lamb shanks from the local supermarket. This time, I sourced the lamb shanks from my neighbourhood butcher's Saslove's (1333 Wellington St. W). They turned out to be fresh Canadian lamb shanks. Mushroom-wise, I picked up two Asian varieties from a local (non-T&T) Asian supermarket, the New 168 Market, just outside of Chinatown (1050 Somerset Street W).

Now, tradition has it that a "bolognese" is a meat "ragu" that is a staple of the Bologna region of Northern Italy. It is a full-bodied meat sauce that is tomato based and flavoured with wine and mirepoix vegetables: 2 parts onions, 1 part carrots, and 1 part celery. At times, it includes milk or cream. For reference, think of the filling in a classic Bolognese lasanga. Here is one I made several weeks ago:

Bolognese Lasagna
Substituting mushrooms for meat, while bucking tradition, makes a good deal of sense. Mushrooms can be good and meaty. Though, they have to be carefully cooked or will come out rubbery.

Here is what turned out:

Braised Lamb Shanks with Mushroom Bolognese
I served it with onion polenta and yu choy.

Recipe
Here's what you'll need:

2 796 mL Cans of Low Sodium Plum Tomatoes

Approximately 230 g (1/2 lb) of one variety of mushroom

Approximately 230 g (1/2 lb) of another variety of mushroom

3 Medium to large lamb shanks

• 1 cup of chopped onion
• 1/2 cup of chopped carrots
• 1/2 cup of chopped celery
• 2 cups of dry red wine (Ours: a 2007 Jackson-Triggs Cabarnet Franc/Cabarnet Sauvignon from the Niagara Peninsula)
• 3 cups of low sodium chicken broth

According to the notes in Chef Chiarello's recipe, the shanks can be made a number of ways: braised for 2-4 hours in an oven set to 300F or braised for 6 hours in an oven set to 250F. While the shanks can be made in a covered pot on the stove top, "there is caramelization of flavors in oven braising that stove top cooking does not replicate." We went the super long route in a low oven. But first, we need a braising liquid and, since we're braising overnight, the liquid can be refrigerated during the day thereafter so the fat can rise to the top, solidify, and be easily lifted off. The braised shanks can also be aged in the refrigerator alongside.

More after the jump...

Wintery conditions have finally returned to Canada's capital after record rainfall earlier this week, the fourth week of January. With such odd weather, it is a wonder Ottawans have their bearings climate wise. Today, temperatures fell below zero again, so I think I will mark the occasion by revisiting a slow cooked dish, red wine braised lamb shanks with onion polenta.

Red Wine Braised Lamb Shanks with Onion Polenta

Of note, even though the lamb shanks made a hearty and savoury dinner, I consider this dish a failure. I will explain why later.

To make the above braised lamb shanks, three fresh lamb shanks were purchased from then Loeb (now Metro) on Wellington. For the record, it was several days past Christmas and Jenn and I wanted something very much non-poultry after serving up our annual turkey feast with all the fixings.

Three fresh lamb shanks

At $11/kg, the shanks ran us $16 before taxes
Remember that number, it will come in handy later...

As with any braise, I seared the lamb shanks, placed them in a small mount of flavourful liquid, and cooked them covered for a long period of time (3 hours). To ensure a hands-free braise (Sunday is chore day for my household), I turned to my slow cooker (aka: crock pot). To ensure the shanks picked up some tannins from the red wine (an unremarkable cabernet sauvignon), I coated the shanks in flour before searing them.

Lamb shanks seared in a little canola oil in a pan

Lamb shanks unceremoniously deposited into the pot of a slow cooker

The braising liquid was a red wine reduction, flavoured with sweated onions.

3 sweated down onions
I added one bottle of an unremarkable cabernet sauvignon, brought to mixture to a simmer, and lowered heat to low, reducing it until thickened.

Reduced red wine and onion mixture

Mixture poured over lamb shanks and slow cooked on low for 3 hours

Braised Lamb Shank

After letting the shanks cool, I placed them in the refrigerator overnight, since braised meats taste better aged. Here' are theories why.

To serve, I whipped up a standard polenta recipe and added finely chopped green onions to taste. That day, I used Alton Brown's polenta recipe. Others will do.

Creamy batch of polenta

Meanwhile, I baked the lamb shanks in an oven, preheated to 350°F, uncovered until they darkened.

Plated Served

More after the jump...

In honour of the 250th anniversary of Arthur Guinness signing a 9000 year lease at St. James's Gate Brewery in Dublin, I decided to attempt a stew, featuring the brewery's flagship product, Guinness stout. Having absolutely no idea how to make an Irish-inspired stew, I asked a local foodie @spoonsie for ideas. She gave me the following recipe:

3 pounds lamb shoulder with a little fat, cubed
1/2 cup flour
3 large Russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
3 large carrots, peeled and sliced
6 stalks celery, cut into 1/2" slices
2 large yellow onions, cut into large dice
3 - 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch fresh rosemary
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 bunch fresh parsley
2 quarts lamb or beef stock, or as needed
12 ounces Guinness stout
1 cup pearl barley (optional)
2 teaspoons corn starch
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For a real Irish country touch, include the barley -- cook it for 20 minutes in 3 cups of lamb or beef stock, then add when you return the meat to pot with the vegetables.

Cut off some of the parsley leaves and chop enough to make 2 tablespoons; reserve. Cut off some parsley stems, and tie them into a bundle with a few sprigs of rosemary and thyme; reserve.

Season the meat with salt and brown the meat in a little oil. Remove and reserve, and sprinkle with a little flour, shaking off excess. Add the onions, garlic, carrots and celery to the pan and sauté, tossing to coat with the fat. Add the Guinness and de-glaze, scraping up any caramelized meat juices. Add the potatoes, return the meat to the pot (and the barley if you're using it). Add enough stock to barely cover, cook over medium heat until just boiling, then reduce heat to very low and simmer 2 - 3 hours, until the meat is tender, stirring occasionally.

Check seasonings, add salt and pepper to taste, then remove from heat, stir in parsley and the cornstarch (mixed into 4 teaspoons of water) and stir. Cook over low heat for a few more minutes to thicken. Serve with plenty of Irish brown or white soda bread, tea and more Guinness if you like.

YIELD: 6 generous servings

Here is my take:

Guinness Lamb and Barley Stew

Modified Recipe

One 8-10 kg Leg of Lamb, seasoned with Kosher salt and freshly ground Black Pepper

Oiled Wok on medium-high heat, oil heated to smoking

Searing the leg of lamb, lightly coated in a rice flour and oil paste, in the preheated wok

2x440 mL Cans of Guinness Draught

Medium-Large Uncured Onions (2 red, one white)

One red onion, Frenched

Partially Seared leg of lamb, on a bed of Aromatic Vegetables with Guinness de-glazing liquid

Second Batch of Aromatic Vegetables

Roughly Chopped Aromatic Vegetables Sweating in a Pan

Pearl Barley

3/4 cup of Pearl Barley

Barley and Beef Broth Added to Sweated Aromatic Vegetables

Barley Cooked

Guinness Braised Leg of Lamb, rested

Lamb Meat, Coarsely Chopped

Guinness Braising Liquid and Lamb Meat Added to Barley and Vegetable Mixture

Served

Also goes well with...

Herb Roasted Potatoes

The reason I didn't follow the original recipe had to do with texture, flavour, and available ingredients. With stews sometimes braising meat into individual fibers and vegetables into mush, I wanted more control, so I modularized the cooking process, choosing to assemble my stew afterward. This way, I could control the texture the meat took on and the resulting stew, while retaining long cooked aromatic flavours, would have no soggy vegetables. I also had no lamb shoulder to cook with and a leg of lamb is equally replete with connective tissue.

Besides, when braising with Guinness or any other dark beer, one has to be mindful not to reduce it very much. Else, the resulting liquid will be very bitter. Having reduced a Guinness into a glaze on one occasion, trust me on this one...

More after the jump...

According to the Associated Press, today is "Odd Day" to math buffs because the date 5/7/09 is one of only six this century that will feature three consecutively odd numbers. Redwood City math teacher, Ron Gordon, who also promotes such numerical holidays as Square Root Day on 3/3/09, has offered $579 to anyone who celebrates Odd Day with the most "zeal." On his website, oddday.net, he suggests celebrating by "giving a friend a high-five", "rooting for the odds-on favourite", "reading the Wizard of Odds", "watching the Odd couple" or saying "aaaaaahd" in the doctor's office. Oddly, the "Odd Day" piece has been picked up by Yahoo and other national newspapers, but gives no further details about the contest.

In my search to discover more "about Odd Day", I ran head long into the Practically Edible website. Apparently, it's "National Leg of Lamb Day" as well. Eh? National where? Serious Eats doesn't tell you, despite their posting a blog on the subject and recommending commemorating the day by cooking the late Bea Arthur's leg of lamb recipe. The Practically Edible website mentions Australia and the "northern hemisphere." It also intimates that North Americans avoid lamb because we "don't like the taste", hence it is more expensive when compared to lamb in international markets.

In response, please take note. We at foodiePrints reside in North America and we enjoy lamb.

Here is an "odd" recipe to commemorate both days. It produces a slow roasted lamb leg that is effectively braised and then broiled to take on some colour.

Braised Lamb with Roasted Potatoes and Carrots

To make it, purchase one shank end leg of lamb, fresh or frozen. If frozen, defrost it.

Take a paring knife an poke holes in the lamb about and inch into the flesh. Distribute the holes evenly amongst the meatier portions. Then, unwrap garlic cloves to fill each hole. Gently push them into the flesh until they disappear. Salt and pepper the entire leg and drizzle with olive oil.

Place the lamb in a baking tray and tent completely with aluminium foil. Place the tray onto the middle rack of a pre-heated 325F oven. Roast for an hour.

Afterward, remove the tray from the oven and gently pull off the tinfoil. Carefully lift the lamb leg to place 1lb each of fingerling potatoes and baby carrots onto the tray under the it.

Re-tent completely, and bake for another 2 hours.

Remove the foil, switch the oven to broil and broil the lamb for half hour. It will take on a lovely golden colour.

Slice and serve the lamb along sides of carrots and potatoes.

Taste? Think succulent lamb with hints of garlic. The potatoes and carrots actually cook in the lamb leg's jus and pickup lamby flavours as well.

Done

This just in: Don't tell Ron Gordon that 5/7/09 (mm/dd/yy) is not the way dates are presented in Canada. This is an American representation, which probably means that odd day for us will not be for another 2 months. Shhhh!

With warmer weather approaching, my stock and crock pot have found themselves slowly being neglected. Spring and summer in Ottawa mean shifting diets towards including more seasonal produce like dandelion leaves and fiddle heads. Some local farms with poly-tunnels (plastic enclosed green houses) will soon bring a variety of fruits and vegetables to the local open air markets, including the annual Lansdowne and new Main Street Farmers' Markets. Why do I make the distinction? Some open air markets, like the Parkdale one, host vendors who sell produce that come from the same distributors as those that supply local mega-marts. As such, the fruits and vegetables are sourced no more locally than Florida oranges or Mexican tomatoes in the produce section of the Superstore.

Incidentally, the Parkdale Market has one vendor who decided to sell me a non-locally sourced Spanish onion for $1, when his display clearly read $0.75/each. After some argument, I gave up and paid a dollar for my onion. I was pressed for time and wanted to load up a batch of lamb korma to braise before heading out to dinner with my better half's family.

Before you ask, the Korma was not a "scratch" recipe, but I did completely ignore the instructions from the can of Patak's curry sauce.

Patak's Lamb Korma Curry Sauce
With shoulder and stew lamb on sale at the Metro this week and the can of Patak's curry sauce listing no multi-syllabic preservatives on its label, I couldn't resist.

However, I find braised dishes taste best if left to age in the fridge overnight after cooking. Flavours intensify and any fat pools at the top. It then solidifies and can be easily removed. This is why I usually make a slow cooked curry a night or two before it is served. Hence, the korma was Tuesday's evening's. The korma was braised the previous Sunday.:

Lamb Korma Served
It was served on basmati rice with a simple salad of cucumbers and tomatoes. The curry's flavour was wonderful, savory and mild, punctuated with coconut and tumeric. Best of all, the lamb was meltingly tender, true alchemy converting some rather unpromising scraps of meat and bone into something palatable.

To make it, I cut up 6 pieces of bone-in stew lamb into 2-3 inch cubes, estimated weight of 2 lbs, and placed them into a metal bowl.

Stew Lamb

I added salt, freshly ground pepper, and vegetable oil. Once well mixed, I seared the lamb on all sides in a metal pan over medium heat, approximately 2 minutes per side. Once seared, the lamb was placed into the pot of a crock pot (aka: slow cooker)

I deglazed the pan with a frenched onion and a pinch of salt, lowering the heat slightly below medium.

Onions

Once softened, I added the contents of one 284 mL can of curry sauce to the pan and heated it to a simmer with the onions, scraping any remaining fond at the bottom of the pan.

After simmering for 2-3 minutes, I topped the lamb with the onion/curry mixture.

Topped

To braise, I turned the crock pot to high and brought the liquid back to a simmer. Then, I switched the crock pot to low and left it for 3 hours.

When cool, it was placed in the fridge.

To serve, Jenn lifted the fat off with a soup spoon and re-heated the curry in a non-stick pan under medium heat until simmering.

Reheated

Served

Simple! No fuss...No muss.